Baton Rouge is a city with a large Hispanic population. As a result of this, the citizens are treated to a wide variety of taquerias and restaurants serving traditional Mexican fare. Regardless of all these options, Taco Bell still seems to be the overwhelming favorite for quick Mexican (and I say Mexican with eyes rolling). Taco and Burrito Express, which is located inside a vacant Taco Bell at 2698 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd, shows good food can come from a very recognizable fast food building.
When one enters, it is hard to shake the Taco Bell stigma. A long counter is still present in the front of the restaurant for taking orders and booths adorned with the familiar red, green, and brown colors are still in their original place. A row of small tables is in between the booths and offers a better seating option than the uncomfortable booths. The interior is clearly still a work in progress as mismatched pieces of Mexican art are displayed on the wall, a large TV projects a blurred showing of whatever is on Telemundo that day, and a section of Spanish CD’s and DVD’s are displayed for sale. On the counter sits three large containers of freshly made agua frescas. Agua frescas are combinations of fresh fruit juice, sugar and water. The result is a slightly sweet and refreshing drink. We tried the pineapple agua fresca, which was just slightly sweet and a little tart. We also tried the horchata. Horchata is a milky drink made of rice water, vanilla, and cinnamon. It is very sweet and tastes like the milk from a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch cereal! Both drinks were relatively inexpensive and came in large glasses.
Chips and three choices of salsa were provided while we mulled over the menus. The first, a traditional salsa, might be some of the best I have ever had. It had a nice chunky texture and was filled with tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. Another salsa was made of tomatillos, lime juice, and cilantro, and the last was spiked with spicy and bitter red chilies. All salsas were unique and very fresh. I also ordered a side of guacamole which also was excellent. Unlike some restaurants, Taco and Burrito Express actually gives you a decent serving of the smooth, green stuff.
The food to money ratio at T&B is quite large, as big plates of food are served for cheap prices. However, the cheap prices do not compromise the quality of the dishes served. A large plate of nachos was served piled high with spiced meat and loads of melted cheese. The burritos came large and were stuffed with meat and other fillings. Tacos are served in a traditional style with double corn tortillas and plenty of lime juice, cilantro, and onions. Such meats sampled were the carne asada, shredded chicken, pork al pastor, and beef tongue. All meats were rich in Mexican spices and tasted great. Enchiladas are also featured and are some of the best in town. T&B also features daily specials. The night I went, the special was the seafood soup. A large bowl of spicy seafood broth spiked with chilies and tomatoes was swimming with flakey white fish, large shrimp, a whole crab, mussels, octopus, and snow crab legs. Though the seafood had been cooked in the soup, causing it to be too soft in texture, the flavors were all just right. T&B does not give one the false impression that their food is highly refined. It is simply honest food at a good price and cooked from the heart. T&B also serves breakfast throughout the day and offers a drive through service.
Taco and Burrito Express caters to a large clientel of Hispanic workers and locals, letting one know that the food is authentic. In fact, it satisfied one of Cuisine Rouge’s goals: to eat where the locals eat. If you are a fan of Mexican, Taco and Burrito Express deserves your attention and your business. The exterior may be a bit off-putting to some, but upon entering one is treated to great traditional Mexican food. For a good meal at a great price, make Taco and Burrito Express your next stop when you are craving a taste of the border!
Dos Hermanos
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