By: Mark
2741 Oneal Ln
Baton Rouge, LA 70816-3126
(225) 752-0211
In this start of a new series, I wanted to focus on LA Boilers. Located on Oneal Lane, this small shop boils up seafood with big flavor. Upon entering the store, you will notice a long display case showcasing only Louisiana seafood. Fresh shrimp of all sizes, catfish filets, picked crab meat, and chilled boiled shrimp along with bags of boiled corn and potatoes. My order, two dozen and a half boiled crabs, was ready for pick up. They were hot and full of sweet crab meat. They were spiced perfectly, as a slow burn could be felt on my lips throughout the meal. The corn and potatoes were seasoned perfectly as well. The shrimp were large and easy to peel. They too had a wonderful spicy flavor. So if you are in the mood for spicy boiled seafood and fresh Louisiana produce, then definitely give LA Boilers a try.
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Monday, August 31, 2009
Thursday, August 27, 2009
TJ Ribs
2324 South Acadian Thruway
225.383.7427
6330 Siegen Lane
225.291.8100
http://www.tjribs.com
Cuisine Rouge Rating:
by: Chad
Since the late 1980’s it has been nearly impossible to be in Baton Rouge and think of ribs without thinking of those two letters – TJ. Thomas “T.J.” Moran, isn’t a Baton Rouge native, but adopted the city as his own, and quickly became one of its most hardcore LSU fans. When he first decided to venture into a restaurant specializing in ribs, spare ribs were the typical offering. However, TJ decided upon babyback ribs which were considered something of a novelty at that time. Today of course, this is their most well known and best selling dish.
Walking into the original location on Acadian Thruway is like stepping into an LSU museum. Tons of LSU memorabilia are displayed, the highlight of which is Billy Cannon’s 1959 Heisman trophy, a must see for any true LSU fan. I visited the new location on Siegen Lane with my family, which based on the constant flow of non-stop business at the original site, seemed to be a long time coming.
We arrived right at prime time on a Saturday night, but were seated immediately, thanks to the spaciousness of this venue. I was surprised to learn from our server that they offer a selection of thirty beers on tap. Call me crazy, but you can’t have barbecue without beer. It’s like Christmas without Santa.
Speaking of barbecue, you will get some hardcore purists that will tell you this is not true barbecue. Sure, it isn’t completely cooked over a wood fired pit for hours and hours, but you have to consider how much volume these guys do. Their cooking method is multi-dimensional using dry rubs, marinades, roasting, and then finishing by grilling.
They offer your typical fare of appetizers, spinach dip, chicken wings, stuffed mushrooms, nachos, etc. We opted for their take on chimichangas, where they fill flour tortillas with chopped barbecued beef and deep fry them. Served with their own barbecue sauce, these are tasty and a nice intro to the items to follow.
The menu offers a fairly diverse selection from which to choose. If you aren’t into pork or barbecue, there are burgers, pastas, salads, and several seafood choices including king crab legs, my choice if I ever develop an allergy to red meat or pork.
I ordered the babyback ribs with a baked potato, my wife ordered the pulled pork sandwich and the little guy got his standard, mac and cheese. The ribs were good as always, cooked perfectly and very tender, with meat coming easily off the bone. They lack a strong smoky flavor which some enjoy, but I found them to be tasty. As simple as the baked potato is, I have found some places will either not bake it long enough, or they only give you enough toppings for a few bites. This wasn’t the case here, as the potato was spot on, cooked thoroughly and loaded up with all the standard toppings. My wife enjoyed the sandwich, but said it could have used more sauce, given the dryness of the meat. Since you are provided with sauce on the table, this is a non-issue. It’s much easier to add sauce than to remove it, so the sandwich as served seemed logical to me.
The mac and cheese my son had was obviously straight out of the box, served with some smiley faced fries. Not necessarily a bad thing, since he seemed to like it just fine. The only way I would consider this offensive would have been if they offered the same food as a side on the standard menu.
There was no room for dessert, although the selections were tempting. All are fairly straightforward items, nothing exotic or unusual, but solid choices, including crème brulee, bread pudding, a brownie ice cream sandwich, cheesecake, and more.
Service was good, as I would expect, given the fact that the staff likely all got trained at the original location, where things are non-stop busy at all times. In conclusion, this is a good place to get ribs, and a great place to take an out of town friend who loves LSU sports. I wouldn’t go as far as to call it the best barbecue in town, and I dare say you can find ribs just as good at a few other spots. But if you’re craving ribs and don’t want to take chances, rely upon this Baton Rouge institution.
225.383.7427
6330 Siegen Lane
225.291.8100
http://www.tjribs.com
Cuisine Rouge Rating:
 |
| 4 plates |
by: Chad
Since the late 1980’s it has been nearly impossible to be in Baton Rouge and think of ribs without thinking of those two letters – TJ. Thomas “T.J.” Moran, isn’t a Baton Rouge native, but adopted the city as his own, and quickly became one of its most hardcore LSU fans. When he first decided to venture into a restaurant specializing in ribs, spare ribs were the typical offering. However, TJ decided upon babyback ribs which were considered something of a novelty at that time. Today of course, this is their most well known and best selling dish.
Walking into the original location on Acadian Thruway is like stepping into an LSU museum. Tons of LSU memorabilia are displayed, the highlight of which is Billy Cannon’s 1959 Heisman trophy, a must see for any true LSU fan. I visited the new location on Siegen Lane with my family, which based on the constant flow of non-stop business at the original site, seemed to be a long time coming.
We arrived right at prime time on a Saturday night, but were seated immediately, thanks to the spaciousness of this venue. I was surprised to learn from our server that they offer a selection of thirty beers on tap. Call me crazy, but you can’t have barbecue without beer. It’s like Christmas without Santa.
Speaking of barbecue, you will get some hardcore purists that will tell you this is not true barbecue. Sure, it isn’t completely cooked over a wood fired pit for hours and hours, but you have to consider how much volume these guys do. Their cooking method is multi-dimensional using dry rubs, marinades, roasting, and then finishing by grilling.
They offer your typical fare of appetizers, spinach dip, chicken wings, stuffed mushrooms, nachos, etc. We opted for their take on chimichangas, where they fill flour tortillas with chopped barbecued beef and deep fry them. Served with their own barbecue sauce, these are tasty and a nice intro to the items to follow.
The menu offers a fairly diverse selection from which to choose. If you aren’t into pork or barbecue, there are burgers, pastas, salads, and several seafood choices including king crab legs, my choice if I ever develop an allergy to red meat or pork.
I ordered the babyback ribs with a baked potato, my wife ordered the pulled pork sandwich and the little guy got his standard, mac and cheese. The ribs were good as always, cooked perfectly and very tender, with meat coming easily off the bone. They lack a strong smoky flavor which some enjoy, but I found them to be tasty. As simple as the baked potato is, I have found some places will either not bake it long enough, or they only give you enough toppings for a few bites. This wasn’t the case here, as the potato was spot on, cooked thoroughly and loaded up with all the standard toppings. My wife enjoyed the sandwich, but said it could have used more sauce, given the dryness of the meat. Since you are provided with sauce on the table, this is a non-issue. It’s much easier to add sauce than to remove it, so the sandwich as served seemed logical to me.
The mac and cheese my son had was obviously straight out of the box, served with some smiley faced fries. Not necessarily a bad thing, since he seemed to like it just fine. The only way I would consider this offensive would have been if they offered the same food as a side on the standard menu.
There was no room for dessert, although the selections were tempting. All are fairly straightforward items, nothing exotic or unusual, but solid choices, including crème brulee, bread pudding, a brownie ice cream sandwich, cheesecake, and more.
Service was good, as I would expect, given the fact that the staff likely all got trained at the original location, where things are non-stop busy at all times. In conclusion, this is a good place to get ribs, and a great place to take an out of town friend who loves LSU sports. I wouldn’t go as far as to call it the best barbecue in town, and I dare say you can find ribs just as good at a few other spots. But if you’re craving ribs and don’t want to take chances, rely upon this Baton Rouge institution.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Local Owner Interview: Scott Duffer & Robert Raach – South of Philly
By: Chad
Scott Duffer and Robert Raach are co-owners of South of Philly, an authentic, Philly cheesesteak restaurant located at 4353 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd in Baton Rouge. Both are east coast natives who after years of dabbling in the restaurant business found themselves in Baton Rouge, bringing their beloved steaks to our city. These guys were kind enough to sit down with me and answer a few questions for Cuisine Rouge.
1. How did you get started in the restaurant business?
Robert - “I managed several different restaurants while in my twenties, in various places around the east coast.” Scott – “I went to culinary school, and worked as a chef in many fine dining establishments in the Philadelphia and DC area.”
2. What or who were your influences?
Scott – “Al’s Steakhouse. A landmark cheesesteak shop in Alexandria, Virginia since 1956, they serve the best steaks. They are using only the freshest, best ingredients. I just wanted to duplicate that quality product in my own shop, which we feel that we have done.”
3. When did you know you could make it in this business?
“We are still learning. Watching things very closely and focusing on the food primarily. We are doing well, growing fast, and very focused on our success.”
4. How did you decide on this location?
Robert - “It was available. It was a good location for us because it was ready to go. We didn’t have to build out anything, we just basically moved it and setup shop. We did have to make some changes to the décor, which we are still in the process of doing, but it’s coming along nicely.”
5. What do you love about your job?
Scott - “I love it when people stop by the counter on their way out and let us know how good their experience was. Putting a smile on people’s face when they eat our food.”
6. What do you hate about your job?
Robert - “The constant building maintenance that goes with owning a restaurant. Things breaking and disrupting our flow of business.”
7. When you aren’t cooking, what do you like to do?
Robert - “We are both avid frisbee golfers, so we do that when we can. I’ve got three kids at home, so family time is also pretty busy.” Scott – “I’m a gamer, so you can often find me on the X-Box.”
8. What would you be doing if you weren’t doing this?
Robert – “I have a contract with a local telecom company, and my guys do lots of work for them, so I would be going back to doing that full-time.”
9. What is your favorite dish on the menu?
Robert - “The Smokehouse Philly – the classic Philly steak topped with bacon, green peppers, bbq sauce, onion rings, and cheese on the Amoroso bread.” Scott – “The Tiger Steak – fresh sliced ribeye with jalapenos, and our Blackened Bayou Beer sauce. It’s got a bite to it. It’s an homage to the love folks have down here for spicy foods.”
10. What would your last meal be?
Scott - “Country fried steak, smothered in gravy. I’m a big fan of anything with gravy.”
11. What is your best moment as a restaurant owner?
Scott - “My best moment was the day the guy finished the work painting our building. Seeing our real sign hung up outside, and no longer having our restaurant look like the set of Sponge Bob (it was formerly a seafood restaurant).”
12. What is your worst moment as a restaurant owner?
Robert - “When we came in to find that there was a Freon leak and our cooler was at 55 degrees. We had to throw out everything. We lost the entire cooler, which was fully stocked with all our meats, produce, etc. Not a good day.”
13. Anything new for the future?
Robert - “We are looking at getting a mobile concession stand to be able to serve our same products out at different places, like sporting events, fairs, stuff like that. We are also looking for possible future locations in other surrounding areas.”
14. Other than what you make, what other foods do you enjoy?
“We both love trying new foods, and we love seafood. Seafood down here is whole different animal than it is up north. We love crabs, crawfish, oysters, all of it.”
15. If a person is only visiting your place once, what dish should they get?
Scott - “The classic Philly steak, prepared the classic way, with the provolone or the Cheese Whiz. Some folks kinda worry about having the Whiz on there, but I promise you, you can’t go wrong with it.”
Cuisine Rouge would like to thank Scott and Robert for taking the time to answer our questions. Best of luck to these guys and South of Philly in the future!
Scott Duffer and Robert Raach are co-owners of South of Philly, an authentic, Philly cheesesteak restaurant located at 4353 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd in Baton Rouge. Both are east coast natives who after years of dabbling in the restaurant business found themselves in Baton Rouge, bringing their beloved steaks to our city. These guys were kind enough to sit down with me and answer a few questions for Cuisine Rouge.
1. How did you get started in the restaurant business?
Robert - “I managed several different restaurants while in my twenties, in various places around the east coast.” Scott – “I went to culinary school, and worked as a chef in many fine dining establishments in the Philadelphia and DC area.”
2. What or who were your influences?
Scott – “Al’s Steakhouse. A landmark cheesesteak shop in Alexandria, Virginia since 1956, they serve the best steaks. They are using only the freshest, best ingredients. I just wanted to duplicate that quality product in my own shop, which we feel that we have done.”
3. When did you know you could make it in this business?
“We are still learning. Watching things very closely and focusing on the food primarily. We are doing well, growing fast, and very focused on our success.”
4. How did you decide on this location?
Robert - “It was available. It was a good location for us because it was ready to go. We didn’t have to build out anything, we just basically moved it and setup shop. We did have to make some changes to the décor, which we are still in the process of doing, but it’s coming along nicely.”
5. What do you love about your job?
Scott - “I love it when people stop by the counter on their way out and let us know how good their experience was. Putting a smile on people’s face when they eat our food.”
6. What do you hate about your job?
Robert - “The constant building maintenance that goes with owning a restaurant. Things breaking and disrupting our flow of business.”
7. When you aren’t cooking, what do you like to do?
Robert - “We are both avid frisbee golfers, so we do that when we can. I’ve got three kids at home, so family time is also pretty busy.” Scott – “I’m a gamer, so you can often find me on the X-Box.”
8. What would you be doing if you weren’t doing this?
Robert – “I have a contract with a local telecom company, and my guys do lots of work for them, so I would be going back to doing that full-time.”
9. What is your favorite dish on the menu?
Robert - “The Smokehouse Philly – the classic Philly steak topped with bacon, green peppers, bbq sauce, onion rings, and cheese on the Amoroso bread.” Scott – “The Tiger Steak – fresh sliced ribeye with jalapenos, and our Blackened Bayou Beer sauce. It’s got a bite to it. It’s an homage to the love folks have down here for spicy foods.”
10. What would your last meal be?
Scott - “Country fried steak, smothered in gravy. I’m a big fan of anything with gravy.”
11. What is your best moment as a restaurant owner?
Scott - “My best moment was the day the guy finished the work painting our building. Seeing our real sign hung up outside, and no longer having our restaurant look like the set of Sponge Bob (it was formerly a seafood restaurant).”
12. What is your worst moment as a restaurant owner?
Robert - “When we came in to find that there was a Freon leak and our cooler was at 55 degrees. We had to throw out everything. We lost the entire cooler, which was fully stocked with all our meats, produce, etc. Not a good day.”
13. Anything new for the future?
Robert - “We are looking at getting a mobile concession stand to be able to serve our same products out at different places, like sporting events, fairs, stuff like that. We are also looking for possible future locations in other surrounding areas.”
14. Other than what you make, what other foods do you enjoy?
“We both love trying new foods, and we love seafood. Seafood down here is whole different animal than it is up north. We love crabs, crawfish, oysters, all of it.”
15. If a person is only visiting your place once, what dish should they get?
Scott - “The classic Philly steak, prepared the classic way, with the provolone or the Cheese Whiz. Some folks kinda worry about having the Whiz on there, but I promise you, you can’t go wrong with it.”
Cuisine Rouge would like to thank Scott and Robert for taking the time to answer our questions. Best of luck to these guys and South of Philly in the future!
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
On The Half Shell
37390 Perkins Rd. Ste. ABC
Prairieville, LA
225-673-1951
9828 Bluebonnet Blvd.
Baton Rouge, LA
225-767-3667
http://www.onthehalfshell.biz
by: Chad
Author Jonathan Swift is quoted as having said, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster”. That may be true, but here in south Louisiana, bold men and women eat them up in large quantities. Whether you like them freshly shucked, roasted, fried, or baked in a dish, On The Half Shell has you covered.
This restaurant started out in Prairieville, and now has a location on Bluebonnet near Burbank amidst the rapid growth of that area. This new location offers a more spacious environment than the original, which started out as one parcel of a strip mall and has now, expanded to three. Live music is featured every Thursday through Saturday night, which adds to the atmosphere and helps to promote the local entertainment scene. Usually there’s someone doing an acoustic set, which means you can enjoy your meal without being blasted with sound (unlike some other places).
On my visit, as with nearly every visit, I have to start out with their specialty, Gold Band brand oysters. These are the oysters served, and they are always excellent. Gold Band uses a revolutionary process called HPP to pasteurize their oysters, utilizing high pressure instead of other methods. This results in all bacteria being eliminated to non-detectable levels while causing absolutely no change to taste or texture. This process has led them to win the American Culinary Institute’s award for best tasting raw oysters three years in a row. And to top it off, these guys are from just down the bayou in Houma.
While I will almost never pass up a freshly shucked raw oyster, on this visit I needed to maximize my review potential, so I opted for the Guidry’s dozen, a mixture of the four types of grilled oysters served with garlic French bread. This first type in the sampler is the Rockefeller, perhaps the most well known, a topping of creamy cheese and spinach, topped with breadcrumbs, very tasty. As good as I have had the dish anywhere. Next was the Bienville, my personal favorite; cheese, shrimp and mushrooms, placed atop the oyster and finished with bread crumbs, also very delicious.
The other two varieties are quite interesting. The Piccante di Fromaggio topping is made of asiago cheese, parmesan cheese, bacon bits, and jalapeno peppers. The Casso (the namesake of the restaurant’s owner) features oysters that are brushed with olive oil, then topped with balsamic vinegar, cane syrup, sun-dried tomatoes, and a touch of oregano. While both of these offerings are tasty, I felt the flavors overwhelmed the natural oyster flavor. Aside from texture, there really could have been anything underneath the toppings.
Since this is no appetizer sized array for just one person, I chose one of the smaller dishes for the entrée. Shrimp Jefferson is a specialty developed by the kitchen, and it’s a good one. It starts with eggplant that is peeled and diced up, mixed with crab and shrimp and cooked down thoroughly into a casserole. It is then spooned out into a small baking dish, topped with large fresh shrimp and jumbo lump crabmeat and baked in the oven. This dish is quite good, and I enjoyed it, despite not being a huge fan of eggplant. My only slight problem with it was that it was not served with bread. It seemed to me that a dish with such a stewed type consistency needed a good piece of crusty bread. Of course when I asked my server about it, it was promptly presented to me.
The dish is served with a side, and I got the baked sweet potato. The potato is served with butter and cinnamon sugar, and unlike some places, it is not smothered in these toppings, but rather modestly added to preserve the natural flavor.
The Half Shell is a nice place for a seafood dinner. They offer all the standard fare you would expect at any seafood eatery in town, along with special items like the ones just discussed. The atmosphere is nice, and the service is typically quite good. My only true negative about it would be their policy to not accept Visa or Mastercard. This is due to some issues they faced in the past with fraudulent cards and other problems. I can appreciate the fact that a restaurant can’t stand to lose sales over such things, and that they are in the business of food service and not banking, and shouldn’t be burdened with problems. However, in today’s mostly cashless society, this is a huge inconvenience to a lot of customers, and does drive some folks away. That being said, if you love good Louisiana seafood, especially oysters, give them a try.
Prairieville, LA
225-673-1951
9828 Bluebonnet Blvd.
Baton Rouge, LA
225-767-3667
http://www.onthehalfshell.biz
by: Chad
Author Jonathan Swift is quoted as having said, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster”. That may be true, but here in south Louisiana, bold men and women eat them up in large quantities. Whether you like them freshly shucked, roasted, fried, or baked in a dish, On The Half Shell has you covered.
This restaurant started out in Prairieville, and now has a location on Bluebonnet near Burbank amidst the rapid growth of that area. This new location offers a more spacious environment than the original, which started out as one parcel of a strip mall and has now, expanded to three. Live music is featured every Thursday through Saturday night, which adds to the atmosphere and helps to promote the local entertainment scene. Usually there’s someone doing an acoustic set, which means you can enjoy your meal without being blasted with sound (unlike some other places).
On my visit, as with nearly every visit, I have to start out with their specialty, Gold Band brand oysters. These are the oysters served, and they are always excellent. Gold Band uses a revolutionary process called HPP to pasteurize their oysters, utilizing high pressure instead of other methods. This results in all bacteria being eliminated to non-detectable levels while causing absolutely no change to taste or texture. This process has led them to win the American Culinary Institute’s award for best tasting raw oysters three years in a row. And to top it off, these guys are from just down the bayou in Houma.
While I will almost never pass up a freshly shucked raw oyster, on this visit I needed to maximize my review potential, so I opted for the Guidry’s dozen, a mixture of the four types of grilled oysters served with garlic French bread. This first type in the sampler is the Rockefeller, perhaps the most well known, a topping of creamy cheese and spinach, topped with breadcrumbs, very tasty. As good as I have had the dish anywhere. Next was the Bienville, my personal favorite; cheese, shrimp and mushrooms, placed atop the oyster and finished with bread crumbs, also very delicious.
The other two varieties are quite interesting. The Piccante di Fromaggio topping is made of asiago cheese, parmesan cheese, bacon bits, and jalapeno peppers. The Casso (the namesake of the restaurant’s owner) features oysters that are brushed with olive oil, then topped with balsamic vinegar, cane syrup, sun-dried tomatoes, and a touch of oregano. While both of these offerings are tasty, I felt the flavors overwhelmed the natural oyster flavor. Aside from texture, there really could have been anything underneath the toppings.
Since this is no appetizer sized array for just one person, I chose one of the smaller dishes for the entrée. Shrimp Jefferson is a specialty developed by the kitchen, and it’s a good one. It starts with eggplant that is peeled and diced up, mixed with crab and shrimp and cooked down thoroughly into a casserole. It is then spooned out into a small baking dish, topped with large fresh shrimp and jumbo lump crabmeat and baked in the oven. This dish is quite good, and I enjoyed it, despite not being a huge fan of eggplant. My only slight problem with it was that it was not served with bread. It seemed to me that a dish with such a stewed type consistency needed a good piece of crusty bread. Of course when I asked my server about it, it was promptly presented to me.
The dish is served with a side, and I got the baked sweet potato. The potato is served with butter and cinnamon sugar, and unlike some places, it is not smothered in these toppings, but rather modestly added to preserve the natural flavor.
The Half Shell is a nice place for a seafood dinner. They offer all the standard fare you would expect at any seafood eatery in town, along with special items like the ones just discussed. The atmosphere is nice, and the service is typically quite good. My only true negative about it would be their policy to not accept Visa or Mastercard. This is due to some issues they faced in the past with fraudulent cards and other problems. I can appreciate the fact that a restaurant can’t stand to lose sales over such things, and that they are in the business of food service and not banking, and shouldn’t be burdened with problems. However, in today’s mostly cashless society, this is a huge inconvenience to a lot of customers, and does drive some folks away. That being said, if you love good Louisiana seafood, especially oysters, give them a try.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Freaky Foods of Baton Rouge – Vegemite and Kangaroo Jerky
By: Mark
G’day mates! This edition of Freaky Foods showcases two staples of Australian cuisine. Going to Dingo’s for lunch with Wesley, I was intrigued by a sign that said: “Vegemite and Kangaroo Jerky to Sample!” Being adventurous eaters, we had to try it. The Kangaroo jerky was the first to be brought out. It had a strong aroma, almost musty, but had a sweet flavor. It was very good. Then we were brought a jar of vegemite by the owner, Patrick Muller. He was beaming at the thought of people trying a food he grew up on. Vegemite is made from leftover brewers' yeast extract, a by-product of beer manufacturing, and various vegetable and spices. It almost resembles nutella in its color and texture. After smelling it, I forgot all about nutella. A bitter, salty smell entered my nostrils; making me have second thoughts about wanting to try it. I spread it thinly on a cracker and placed it in my mouth. A salty, slightly bitter, and malty flavor followed. If I had to compare it to something, it would be like sucking on a beef bouillon cube. Patrick then prepared it for us the way he ate it in Australia; spreading it on hot bread with loads of butter. This was a better way to eat it, as the butter definitely mellowed it out, but the vegemite was still so strong I couldn’t finish it. Though it’s not my favorite, I am glad I had a chance to try another country’s food. If you are curious, head to Dingo’s and ask for it; I’m sure Patrick will be happy to oblige.
“Buying bread from a man in Brussels
He was six foot four and full of muscles
I said, do you speak-a my language?
He just smiled and gave me a vegemite sandwich”
At which point I would have politely declined!
Vegemite
Kangaroo Jerky
G’day mates! This edition of Freaky Foods showcases two staples of Australian cuisine. Going to Dingo’s for lunch with Wesley, I was intrigued by a sign that said: “Vegemite and Kangaroo Jerky to Sample!” Being adventurous eaters, we had to try it. The Kangaroo jerky was the first to be brought out. It had a strong aroma, almost musty, but had a sweet flavor. It was very good. Then we were brought a jar of vegemite by the owner, Patrick Muller. He was beaming at the thought of people trying a food he grew up on. Vegemite is made from leftover brewers' yeast extract, a by-product of beer manufacturing, and various vegetable and spices. It almost resembles nutella in its color and texture. After smelling it, I forgot all about nutella. A bitter, salty smell entered my nostrils; making me have second thoughts about wanting to try it. I spread it thinly on a cracker and placed it in my mouth. A salty, slightly bitter, and malty flavor followed. If I had to compare it to something, it would be like sucking on a beef bouillon cube. Patrick then prepared it for us the way he ate it in Australia; spreading it on hot bread with loads of butter. This was a better way to eat it, as the butter definitely mellowed it out, but the vegemite was still so strong I couldn’t finish it. Though it’s not my favorite, I am glad I had a chance to try another country’s food. If you are curious, head to Dingo’s and ask for it; I’m sure Patrick will be happy to oblige.
“Buying bread from a man in Brussels
He was six foot four and full of muscles
I said, do you speak-a my language?
He just smiled and gave me a vegemite sandwich”
At which point I would have politely declined!
Vegemite
Kangaroo Jerky
Friday, August 14, 2009
Taco and Burrito Express – Good Mexican Can Come From Taco Bell
By: Mark
Baton Rouge is a city with a large Hispanic population. As a result of this, the citizens are treated to a wide variety of taquerias and restaurants serving traditional Mexican fare. Regardless of all these options, Taco Bell still seems to be the overwhelming favorite for quick Mexican (and I say Mexican with eyes rolling). Taco and Burrito Express, which is located inside a vacant Taco Bell at 2698 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd, shows good food can come from a very recognizable fast food building.
When one enters, it is hard to shake the Taco Bell stigma. A long counter is still present in the front of the restaurant for taking orders and booths adorned with the familiar red, green, and brown colors are still in their original place. A row of small tables is in between the booths and offers a better seating option than the uncomfortable booths. The interior is clearly still a work in progress as mismatched pieces of Mexican art are displayed on the wall, a large TV projects a blurred showing of whatever is on Telemundo that day, and a section of Spanish CD’s and DVD’s are displayed for sale. On the counter sits three large containers of freshly made agua frescas. Agua frescas are combinations of fresh fruit juice, sugar and water. The result is a slightly sweet and refreshing drink. We tried the pineapple agua fresca, which was just slightly sweet and a little tart. We also tried the horchata. Horchata is a milky drink made of rice water, vanilla, and cinnamon. It is very sweet and tastes like the milk from a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch cereal! Both drinks were relatively inexpensive and came in large glasses.
Chips and three choices of salsa were provided while we mulled over the menus. The first, a traditional salsa, might be some of the best I have ever had. It had a nice chunky texture and was filled with tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. Another salsa was made of tomatillos, lime juice, and cilantro, and the last was spiked with spicy and bitter red chilies. All salsas were unique and very fresh. I also ordered a side of guacamole which also was excellent. Unlike some restaurants, Taco and Burrito Express actually gives you a decent serving of the smooth, green stuff.
The food to money ratio at T&B is quite large, as big plates of food are served for cheap prices. However, the cheap prices do not compromise the quality of the dishes served. A large plate of nachos was served piled high with spiced meat and loads of melted cheese. The burritos came large and were stuffed with meat and other fillings. Tacos are served in a traditional style with double corn tortillas and plenty of lime juice, cilantro, and onions. Such meats sampled were the carne asada, shredded chicken, pork al pastor, and beef tongue. All meats were rich in Mexican spices and tasted great. Enchiladas are also featured and are some of the best in town. T&B also features daily specials. The night I went, the special was the seafood soup. A large bowl of spicy seafood broth spiked with chilies and tomatoes was swimming with flakey white fish, large shrimp, a whole crab, mussels, octopus, and snow crab legs. Though the seafood had been cooked in the soup, causing it to be too soft in texture, the flavors were all just right. T&B does not give one the false impression that their food is highly refined. It is simply honest food at a good price and cooked from the heart. T&B also serves breakfast throughout the day and offers a drive through service.
Taco and Burrito Express caters to a large clientel of Hispanic workers and locals, letting one know that the food is authentic. In fact, it satisfied one of Cuisine Rouge’s goals: to eat where the locals eat. If you are a fan of Mexican, Taco and Burrito Express deserves your attention and your business. The exterior may be a bit off-putting to some, but upon entering one is treated to great traditional Mexican food. For a good meal at a great price, make Taco and Burrito Express your next stop when you are craving a taste of the border!
Dos Hermanos
Baton Rouge is a city with a large Hispanic population. As a result of this, the citizens are treated to a wide variety of taquerias and restaurants serving traditional Mexican fare. Regardless of all these options, Taco Bell still seems to be the overwhelming favorite for quick Mexican (and I say Mexican with eyes rolling). Taco and Burrito Express, which is located inside a vacant Taco Bell at 2698 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd, shows good food can come from a very recognizable fast food building.
When one enters, it is hard to shake the Taco Bell stigma. A long counter is still present in the front of the restaurant for taking orders and booths adorned with the familiar red, green, and brown colors are still in their original place. A row of small tables is in between the booths and offers a better seating option than the uncomfortable booths. The interior is clearly still a work in progress as mismatched pieces of Mexican art are displayed on the wall, a large TV projects a blurred showing of whatever is on Telemundo that day, and a section of Spanish CD’s and DVD’s are displayed for sale. On the counter sits three large containers of freshly made agua frescas. Agua frescas are combinations of fresh fruit juice, sugar and water. The result is a slightly sweet and refreshing drink. We tried the pineapple agua fresca, which was just slightly sweet and a little tart. We also tried the horchata. Horchata is a milky drink made of rice water, vanilla, and cinnamon. It is very sweet and tastes like the milk from a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch cereal! Both drinks were relatively inexpensive and came in large glasses.
Chips and three choices of salsa were provided while we mulled over the menus. The first, a traditional salsa, might be some of the best I have ever had. It had a nice chunky texture and was filled with tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. Another salsa was made of tomatillos, lime juice, and cilantro, and the last was spiked with spicy and bitter red chilies. All salsas were unique and very fresh. I also ordered a side of guacamole which also was excellent. Unlike some restaurants, Taco and Burrito Express actually gives you a decent serving of the smooth, green stuff.
The food to money ratio at T&B is quite large, as big plates of food are served for cheap prices. However, the cheap prices do not compromise the quality of the dishes served. A large plate of nachos was served piled high with spiced meat and loads of melted cheese. The burritos came large and were stuffed with meat and other fillings. Tacos are served in a traditional style with double corn tortillas and plenty of lime juice, cilantro, and onions. Such meats sampled were the carne asada, shredded chicken, pork al pastor, and beef tongue. All meats were rich in Mexican spices and tasted great. Enchiladas are also featured and are some of the best in town. T&B also features daily specials. The night I went, the special was the seafood soup. A large bowl of spicy seafood broth spiked with chilies and tomatoes was swimming with flakey white fish, large shrimp, a whole crab, mussels, octopus, and snow crab legs. Though the seafood had been cooked in the soup, causing it to be too soft in texture, the flavors were all just right. T&B does not give one the false impression that their food is highly refined. It is simply honest food at a good price and cooked from the heart. T&B also serves breakfast throughout the day and offers a drive through service.
Taco and Burrito Express caters to a large clientel of Hispanic workers and locals, letting one know that the food is authentic. In fact, it satisfied one of Cuisine Rouge’s goals: to eat where the locals eat. If you are a fan of Mexican, Taco and Burrito Express deserves your attention and your business. The exterior may be a bit off-putting to some, but upon entering one is treated to great traditional Mexican food. For a good meal at a great price, make Taco and Burrito Express your next stop when you are craving a taste of the border!
Dos Hermanos
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Freaky Foods of Baton Rouge - Soft-Shell Crab
Louisiana is a birthplace of freaky foods and the soft-shell crab is one of them. As a crab molts, there is a brief moment when its shell is extremely soft. Whoever thought of the idea to fry them should be considered a genius. The crab is dredged in egg wash and seasoned flour and then fried to a golden brown. You eat everything; the meat, the shell, and all the rich, creamy guts and fat. The majority of the crab tastes great, but there will be a noticeable difference in taste and texture when you are no longer eating meat. The innards are strong in flavor and are so weird tasting that they are delicious. Get one on a poboy or just on its own. In my opinion, the soft-shell is the king of fried seafood.
Softshell Crab Poboy
Fried Softshell Crab
Softshell Crab Poboy
Fried Softshell Crab
Monday, August 10, 2009
Zea’s – American Fusion at Its Best
By: Mark
http://www.zearestaurants.com
Cuisine Rouge Rating:
Cuisine Rouge made a promise to not focus or promote chains, but this local chain (started in Harahan, LA) deserves to be mentioned. Zea’s combines Asian and Mediterranean flavors into classic American foods. The outcome is a tasty fusion of big flavors. Zea’s rotisserie meats are some of the best around. Each day, a new slow roasted meat is featured (veal, lamb, pork, and beef are some) and their famous chicken is offered all the time.
I arrived at Zea’s on a Sunday night. I was celebrating my birthday with friends and concluded that Sunday would be the best night to entertain a table of ten. I walked in and noticed plenty of tables available. I asked the hostess for a table for ten and she looked at me as if she didn’t understand. “A table for ten, please.” I said again. She told me they would set me up a table, but I couldn’t sit there until 75% of my party had arrived. I glanced around the restaurant (which was approximately 75% empty) and said, “Fine.” I must admit, when a hostess cannot use good judgment it absolutely annoys me. I understand if a restaurant is full or near capacity, but I should be able to sit in a nearly empty restaurant. When 5 of my guest arrived (only 70%), we were able to sit.
The waitress was warm and friendly. She readily took our drink orders and brought us our drinks promptly (non-alcoholic). Shortly the remainder of my party arrived. Several of us ordered alcoholic beverages. Zea’s offers a variety of mojitos so I ordered the ginger mojito. It was delicious. The spicy ginger mixed well with the cool mint and the burn of the rum was pleasant. Several others ordered different mojitos and another guest ordered a cucumber martini; which she loved. In all, six of us ordered a mixed drink and another a beer and still the drinks took a long time to come out. This is excusable when a restaurant is full, but not when it is nearly empty. I wonder how long the drinks sat at the bar before being served.
We went light on the appetizers; with one couple ordering the Mediterranean hummus. This hummus is some of the best around. A large serving of creamy hummus is crowned with feta cheese, strips of julienned basil, sun dried tomatoes, olives, roasted garlic, and olive oil, Served with warm pita bread, this is a delicious way to start the meal. Other excellent appetizers are the Asian almond shrimp and the duck empanadas. Also, Zea’s signature spinach salad with pepper jelly vinaigrette is a must.
For entrees, Zea’s offers a wide range of roasted meats, seafood dishes, sandwiches, and local favorites. For my meal, I split the Thai ribs with my girlfriend, who ordered the twice cooked duck. The Thai ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender and were very juicy. The ribs were glazed in a sweet and spicy Thai sauce and adorned with toasted sesame seeds and cilantro. The twice cooked duck, (which three people ordered) was perfect as always. Two large leg quarters were slow roasted till juicy and then flash fried to make the skin crisp. The spicy honey soy sauce was a perfect sauce to bring out the duck’s natural flavors. Another diner ordered the rotisserie ribeye steak, which he enjoyed. Two diners sampled the rotisserie chicken; one opting for lemon and rosemary flavor and the other opting for a sweet chili glaze. Both were very pleased with their meals. Two diners also ordered the rotisserie meat of the day, which was the beef with mushroom sauce. Both were very pleased with the flavor of the meat, but wished more mushrooms could have been present in the sauce. The side dishes of Zea’s were also delicious. Creamy roasted corn grits, spicy braised cabbage, tangy Thai snap beans, and sugary mashed sweet potatoes were some of the sides enjoyed by all.
A complaint, and this shows the wait staff of a college town, was about ten minutes after we ordered the waitress came back saying there was a twenty minute wait on the chicken. She wanted to know if the rest of the table wanted their entrees. Why would I go out to dinner with friends if I wanted a twenty minute head start in my meal? I politetly told her we would wait. The meals were all brought out together and all were pleased.
For dessert, one diner ordered a homemade chocolate brownie and another ordered the bread pudding. The brownie was hot and gooey with chocolate and served with ice cream. The bread pudding was unique in that it was served like a wedge of cake. It was huge and the women (and Wesley) were very happy.
Zea’s is the kind of restaurant I enjoy eating at. Its mix of familiar foods with an exciting twist that certainly makes for an interesting meal. Its heavy Asian and Mediterranean influences can also serve as a stepping stone for new diners to try other ethnic dishes. Zea’s has become one of my “go-to” restaurants due to its diverse menu and big flavors. Zea’s is sure to please any person in search of a good meal.
http://www.zearestaurants.com
Cuisine Rouge Rating:
|
| 4 plates |
Cuisine Rouge made a promise to not focus or promote chains, but this local chain (started in Harahan, LA) deserves to be mentioned. Zea’s combines Asian and Mediterranean flavors into classic American foods. The outcome is a tasty fusion of big flavors. Zea’s rotisserie meats are some of the best around. Each day, a new slow roasted meat is featured (veal, lamb, pork, and beef are some) and their famous chicken is offered all the time.
I arrived at Zea’s on a Sunday night. I was celebrating my birthday with friends and concluded that Sunday would be the best night to entertain a table of ten. I walked in and noticed plenty of tables available. I asked the hostess for a table for ten and she looked at me as if she didn’t understand. “A table for ten, please.” I said again. She told me they would set me up a table, but I couldn’t sit there until 75% of my party had arrived. I glanced around the restaurant (which was approximately 75% empty) and said, “Fine.” I must admit, when a hostess cannot use good judgment it absolutely annoys me. I understand if a restaurant is full or near capacity, but I should be able to sit in a nearly empty restaurant. When 5 of my guest arrived (only 70%), we were able to sit.
The waitress was warm and friendly. She readily took our drink orders and brought us our drinks promptly (non-alcoholic). Shortly the remainder of my party arrived. Several of us ordered alcoholic beverages. Zea’s offers a variety of mojitos so I ordered the ginger mojito. It was delicious. The spicy ginger mixed well with the cool mint and the burn of the rum was pleasant. Several others ordered different mojitos and another guest ordered a cucumber martini; which she loved. In all, six of us ordered a mixed drink and another a beer and still the drinks took a long time to come out. This is excusable when a restaurant is full, but not when it is nearly empty. I wonder how long the drinks sat at the bar before being served.
We went light on the appetizers; with one couple ordering the Mediterranean hummus. This hummus is some of the best around. A large serving of creamy hummus is crowned with feta cheese, strips of julienned basil, sun dried tomatoes, olives, roasted garlic, and olive oil, Served with warm pita bread, this is a delicious way to start the meal. Other excellent appetizers are the Asian almond shrimp and the duck empanadas. Also, Zea’s signature spinach salad with pepper jelly vinaigrette is a must.
For entrees, Zea’s offers a wide range of roasted meats, seafood dishes, sandwiches, and local favorites. For my meal, I split the Thai ribs with my girlfriend, who ordered the twice cooked duck. The Thai ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender and were very juicy. The ribs were glazed in a sweet and spicy Thai sauce and adorned with toasted sesame seeds and cilantro. The twice cooked duck, (which three people ordered) was perfect as always. Two large leg quarters were slow roasted till juicy and then flash fried to make the skin crisp. The spicy honey soy sauce was a perfect sauce to bring out the duck’s natural flavors. Another diner ordered the rotisserie ribeye steak, which he enjoyed. Two diners sampled the rotisserie chicken; one opting for lemon and rosemary flavor and the other opting for a sweet chili glaze. Both were very pleased with their meals. Two diners also ordered the rotisserie meat of the day, which was the beef with mushroom sauce. Both were very pleased with the flavor of the meat, but wished more mushrooms could have been present in the sauce. The side dishes of Zea’s were also delicious. Creamy roasted corn grits, spicy braised cabbage, tangy Thai snap beans, and sugary mashed sweet potatoes were some of the sides enjoyed by all.
A complaint, and this shows the wait staff of a college town, was about ten minutes after we ordered the waitress came back saying there was a twenty minute wait on the chicken. She wanted to know if the rest of the table wanted their entrees. Why would I go out to dinner with friends if I wanted a twenty minute head start in my meal? I politetly told her we would wait. The meals were all brought out together and all were pleased.
For dessert, one diner ordered a homemade chocolate brownie and another ordered the bread pudding. The brownie was hot and gooey with chocolate and served with ice cream. The bread pudding was unique in that it was served like a wedge of cake. It was huge and the women (and Wesley) were very happy.
Zea’s is the kind of restaurant I enjoy eating at. Its mix of familiar foods with an exciting twist that certainly makes for an interesting meal. Its heavy Asian and Mediterranean influences can also serve as a stepping stone for new diners to try other ethnic dishes. Zea’s has become one of my “go-to” restaurants due to its diverse menu and big flavors. Zea’s is sure to please any person in search of a good meal.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Local Owner Interview: Johnny DeAngelo – Johnny D’s New York Pizza Company
By: Mark
Johnny DeAngelo is the owner of Johnny D’s, an Italian and New York style pizza restaurant located at 13214 Coursey Blvd in Baton Rouge, near the intersection of Stumberg Lane and Coursey Boulevard. Johnny is a native of New Jersey, where he grew up making pizzas, something he still does, and does well. He has been kind enough to sit down and answer a few questions for Cuisine Rouge:
1. How did you get started in the restaurant business?
“I made my first pizzas in 1973 in Mr. Hill’s Restaurant and Bar back in Bayonne, New Jersey. My sister Janet and I ran the kitchen. I was fresh out of high school and I knew cooking pizzas was what I wanted to do with my life.”
2. What or who were your influences?
“When I was a kid my biggest influence was the great Julia Child. She inspired me to not only cook, but to also pursue a cooking show of my own. I also learned from my mom and sisters, especially working in my sister’s restaurant Mortorano’s (which is now Schlitz and Giggles downtown).”
3. When did you know you could make it in this business?
“Do you ever really know you will make it in this business? When my sister closed her restaurant, it sat vacant for a year (the Jones Creek location). I reopened it and the biggest indication we were doing something right, was the people’s positive reaction. We had to be doing something right! We have had plenty of regular and return customers over the years.”
4. How did you decide on this location?
“I started looking as soon as I heard of the plan to expand Jones Creek Road. There was a good chance I would lose my parking lot and that would have been very bad for business. I drove around and just saw a “For Sale” sign in the window. I inquired and the rest is history. It was truly God’s will that I ended up in this location.”
5. What do you love about your job?
“I love to make people happy. I love the interaction with the customer. Every day I get to meet new and interesting people; people from all walks of life that are united by their love of pizza!”
6. What do you hate about your job?
“When things are out of my control. The service by the wait staff, the performance in the kitchen; I have no control over how someone ultimately does their job. It causes great stress when you can’t control someone’s performance. I take it personal when a customer does not receive the highest quality of service.”
7. When you aren’t cooking, what do you like to do?
“I love to shoot guns. I have many pistols and rifles and enjoy shooting them at the range. I am an avid believer in the Second Amendment.”
8. What would you be doing if you weren’t the owner of Johnny D's?
“I used to work for a security sales company, so I would probably be doing that. Or I would be working for my wife at DeAngelo Real Estate.”
9. What is your favorite dish on the menu?
“The Johnny’s Choice pizza – loaded with Italian sausage, onions, and mushrooms.”
10. What would your last meal be?
“Pizza of course! My perfect pizza has a nice thin crust, light on the sauce and cheese, and plenty of quality ingredients such as Italian sausage, onions, and mushrooms.”
11. What is your best moment as a restaurant owner?
“My best moment was being able to provide all the food for a wedding for one of my friends. Knowing I was able to do something so nice for someone was a good feeling.”
12. What is your worst moment as a restaurant owner?
“When Hurricane Gustav hit Baton Rouge. To a small business this was devastating. We had to shut down for two weeks and I lost a lot of money and all of my food. We were literally on the brink of disaster.”
13. Anything new for the future?
“Well I would love to have my own cooking show in the restaurant. I have also decided to place the rosemary and garlic baked chicken with roasted vegetables on the menu as a special. Also I am reapplying for our liquor license. It will take 90 days to get approved but we should be able to serve beer and wine soon.”
14. Other than what you make, what other foods do you enjoy?
“I love Chinese and Mexican. My wife especially loves fajitas. I am also a fan of sushi, however the more standard, cooked stuff, not sea urchin. My favorite non-Italian meal would be a perfectly cooked filet mignon with a fully loaded baked potato and a good salad.”
15. If a person is only visiting your place once, what dish should they get?
“The spaghetti and meatballs. It is simple, good comfort food and I am very proud of it. Make sure to top it with plenty of Pecorino Romano cheese.”
Cuisine Rouge would like to thank you Johnny DeAngelo for taking the time to answer our questions. Good luck to you and Johnny D’s in the future!
Johnny DeAngelo is the owner of Johnny D’s, an Italian and New York style pizza restaurant located at 13214 Coursey Blvd in Baton Rouge, near the intersection of Stumberg Lane and Coursey Boulevard. Johnny is a native of New Jersey, where he grew up making pizzas, something he still does, and does well. He has been kind enough to sit down and answer a few questions for Cuisine Rouge:
1. How did you get started in the restaurant business?
“I made my first pizzas in 1973 in Mr. Hill’s Restaurant and Bar back in Bayonne, New Jersey. My sister Janet and I ran the kitchen. I was fresh out of high school and I knew cooking pizzas was what I wanted to do with my life.”
2. What or who were your influences?
“When I was a kid my biggest influence was the great Julia Child. She inspired me to not only cook, but to also pursue a cooking show of my own. I also learned from my mom and sisters, especially working in my sister’s restaurant Mortorano’s (which is now Schlitz and Giggles downtown).”
3. When did you know you could make it in this business?
“Do you ever really know you will make it in this business? When my sister closed her restaurant, it sat vacant for a year (the Jones Creek location). I reopened it and the biggest indication we were doing something right, was the people’s positive reaction. We had to be doing something right! We have had plenty of regular and return customers over the years.”
4. How did you decide on this location?
“I started looking as soon as I heard of the plan to expand Jones Creek Road. There was a good chance I would lose my parking lot and that would have been very bad for business. I drove around and just saw a “For Sale” sign in the window. I inquired and the rest is history. It was truly God’s will that I ended up in this location.”
5. What do you love about your job?
“I love to make people happy. I love the interaction with the customer. Every day I get to meet new and interesting people; people from all walks of life that are united by their love of pizza!”
6. What do you hate about your job?
“When things are out of my control. The service by the wait staff, the performance in the kitchen; I have no control over how someone ultimately does their job. It causes great stress when you can’t control someone’s performance. I take it personal when a customer does not receive the highest quality of service.”
7. When you aren’t cooking, what do you like to do?
“I love to shoot guns. I have many pistols and rifles and enjoy shooting them at the range. I am an avid believer in the Second Amendment.”
8. What would you be doing if you weren’t the owner of Johnny D's?
“I used to work for a security sales company, so I would probably be doing that. Or I would be working for my wife at DeAngelo Real Estate.”
9. What is your favorite dish on the menu?
“The Johnny’s Choice pizza – loaded with Italian sausage, onions, and mushrooms.”
10. What would your last meal be?
“Pizza of course! My perfect pizza has a nice thin crust, light on the sauce and cheese, and plenty of quality ingredients such as Italian sausage, onions, and mushrooms.”
11. What is your best moment as a restaurant owner?
“My best moment was being able to provide all the food for a wedding for one of my friends. Knowing I was able to do something so nice for someone was a good feeling.”
12. What is your worst moment as a restaurant owner?
“When Hurricane Gustav hit Baton Rouge. To a small business this was devastating. We had to shut down for two weeks and I lost a lot of money and all of my food. We were literally on the brink of disaster.”
13. Anything new for the future?
“Well I would love to have my own cooking show in the restaurant. I have also decided to place the rosemary and garlic baked chicken with roasted vegetables on the menu as a special. Also I am reapplying for our liquor license. It will take 90 days to get approved but we should be able to serve beer and wine soon.”
14. Other than what you make, what other foods do you enjoy?
“I love Chinese and Mexican. My wife especially loves fajitas. I am also a fan of sushi, however the more standard, cooked stuff, not sea urchin. My favorite non-Italian meal would be a perfectly cooked filet mignon with a fully loaded baked potato and a good salad.”
15. If a person is only visiting your place once, what dish should they get?
“The spaghetti and meatballs. It is simple, good comfort food and I am very proud of it. Make sure to top it with plenty of Pecorino Romano cheese.”
Cuisine Rouge would like to thank you Johnny DeAngelo for taking the time to answer our questions. Good luck to you and Johnny D’s in the future!
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Doe's Eat Place
By: Wesley
3723 Government Street
Baton Rouge, LA 70806
(225) 387-5331
This review must be prefaced with this warning: CuisineRouge makes a point of avoiding “chain” restaurants for good reason - most chains are devoid of soul, creativity, and real talent in the kitchen. There, I said it. I’m not trying to hate on them, but a locally owned, original restaurant symbolizes someone's ambitions and life savings, not the clever franchising decisions of a real-estate investment consortium. We do what we can do to shine the light on these places, as they often are overlooked.
Doe’s is an interesting compromise for us. It started out fairly close to home, over in Greenville, Mississippi, and over the years, Doe’s has grown to have two family-owned locations, and twelve franchise locations. Since the family-owned locations are not within a 30-minute drive of Baton Rouge, we visited the franchised location on Government Street.
So enough bull, where’s the beef? My two amigos and I were craving some steak, and Doe’s Eat Place sounded like a fun place to pig out. This is what I learned: Doe’s is probably the most honest and least pretentious steak restaurant that I’ve ever dined at. There is no tacky theme, vegan waif offerings, or chicken served at this establishment (although I hear the menus do vary location to location).
I am hesitant to call this restaurant “manly,” as I don’t want to give any woman hesitation to eating at Doe’s - perhaps “simple,” “elemental,” or “pure” are better adjectives to use. The menu is the very essence of “less is more” as there are only three main items: steak, tamales, and shrimp. Now hold on - there is a bit more to it, as there are 4 types of steak to choose from: sirloin, ribeye, filet mignon, and t-bone/porterhouse.
We each ordered a glass of tea, and in addition one of my fellow diners ordered a glass of Russian Standard vodka, which I hear is hard to find in most restaurants. Kudos to Doe’s for having fancy liquor! Per him, this vodka is the cleanest, best tasting vodka on the market, made by the people that invented the stuff. A must try for those who are hung up on the trendy goose named French offering, ordered blindly by those looking to be cool. Drinking French vodka is kinda like eating Chinese food in downtown Tijuana, but I digress.
The tamales....these aren’t what you get at the Mexican joint down the street. These are “Delta style,” which essentially means they aren’t bland and wrapped in a corn husk. “Delta style” comes in a paper wrapper, and instead of canned chili, you get the scraps from the beef the steaks are cut from ground up coarsely and prepared into a delicious and tangy stew. You simply unwrap the tamale, spoon on some chili, and then enjoy. The beef, corn, and chili come together in a most satisfying way. The three of us split a half-dozen as an appetizer, but if the possibility of steak wasn’t looming, I’d gladly settle for a dozen as my meal, and not feel slighted in the least.
Now about the beef. One thing that is positively refreshing is the amount of respect that Doe’s pays to the Bos Primigenius (That’s what scientists calls cows). Doe’s refuses to ruin the beef by burning it (also known as “well done,” the greatest culinary oxymoron). Since we all were shooting for a light meal, we each ordered the smallest steak on the menu, the pound and a half porterhouse. That might blow your mind, and that’s okay. The steaks are offered in roughly one pound increments, with the intention that you order a big one to share with your partner, with some of the cuts even offering two different temperatures per order.
Ordering the steak was easy: pick your cut, your poundage, and your doneness. After that, another tantalizing choice: fries or boiled potatoes. One amigo picked fries, two picked the boiled potatoes. The waiter warned us the potatoes were bland, prepared only by placing them into unsalted boiling water with butter, and the fries were the better pick.
Every steak dinner is preceded with a marinated salad, consisting of iceberg lettuce and cherry tomatoes soaked in a lemon juice, garlic, and olive oil infusion. The salad tasted good, a little sour/spicy, but the wilted lettuce was a bit of a turn off and I wish it had been colder. The wooden bowls were a rustic touch, and there is an interesting story about the salad, invented by Aunt Florence, that you can find on Doe’s website. True carnivores may not care about the salad, but it is a Doe’s institution.
On to the steaks - yes, the whole point of going to a steak restaurant is the big slab of sizzling beef, untainted by ketchup, A1, Heinz 57, pineapple glaze, or peppercorn mushroom congealed disappointment. Sauces like these are the refuge of weaker cuts of beef, and Doe’s doesn’t offer them because they don’t need them. The ketchup on the tables is only for the fries! Our porterhouses arrived at the table, cooked perfectly. Along with the sizzling spread came a basket of curious brown biscuits. These “drop biscuits” consist of dough, deep fried, and served with butter and honey. Think country-style beignets and you are close enough.
The next part is little hazy. Once we started eating the steaks, the witty banter gave way to the tinkling sounds of cutlery, and other less delicate sounds. Watching two other men eat steak isn’t pretty, so it’s best to focus on what’s on your plate. I had ordered the boiled potatoes to accompany my steak, against the recommendation of the waiter, and they were just that - boiled potatoes, bland and unremarkable. Thankfully, there were enough French fries to go around, and they were cut and seasoned perfectly.
Our waiter, who was something of a likeable smart-ass, encouraged us to pick up the bone and get the good parts if we couldn’t manage with fork and knife alone. We happily obliged. I don’t know how else to tell you - the steak was perfect, tender, well seasoned (with salt and pepper alone, as far as I can tell). We were offered dessert, but passed due to a complete lack of room to hold it.
So what else is there to say about Doe’s Eat Place? Well, it’s a great place to get a perfect steak, it’s got a fun and casual atmosphere, and it’s the absolute worst place to bring your Hindu and vegetarian friends. My bill, which included two tamales (1/3 of the half dozen), iced tea, and the one and a half pound porterhouse was $44. Not bad at all! I’m really looking forward to eating here again. Go Eat at Doe’s!
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Freaky Foods of Baton Rouge - Blackened Alligator
To native Louisianans, alligator seems pretty tame. But for too many people, eating this large lizard makes stomachs crawl. One of the specialties of The Chimes is their blackened alligator. Chunks of tender tail meat are coated with blackening seasoning and seared in a cast iron skillet. The salty and spicy seasoning goes well with the mild, white meat. To those who say it tastes like chicken, you can believe that. But I think it may be better than chicken.
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